hi everyone it's april with hair 101i'm going to give you another color video we've had a lot of requests on color correction we have her hair pretty dark. it was an ombre for a while then we went down
color powder for thinning hair, back to a natural brown then we are going lighter againwe do a lot of things to this cute girl's hair.so we have to be really careful and condition it a lot because we do color we change the color
of it really often.so tell me what you want to do this time i want to go lighter.so put more blond in it alright so we are going to do you want any of the brown in there? no!you want just the light? yes so this is going to be considered a color correctionbecause as you can see there's still some color stain on her endsi'm going to pull this hair straight up so you can see what's going on here so you can see where her natural hairhas grown out and then there's the section here whereher natural hair was the last time that
we colored it and we did a heavy blond weaveand it wasn't this light everywhere because we had brown in there still from the last color but the brown has faded out even more now what i'll do with people that want to go lighter i will do a heavy blond weave or a medium blond weave throughout their dark hair and put thebleach all over the entire shaft and then rinse it outthen the next time they come i slowly work it a little bit lighter because
if you keep bleaching it over and over during the same process it takes forever and if you weave it blond and go slowly lighterit's going to look better, you won't get as much orange tones going in it and it's going to be healthier for the hair because it's not all getting bleached at the same time i wouldn't suggest taking someone that has a lot of color in their ends that's pretty stained and dumping bleach over their whole head if they want to be all over blond i always do weaves when i'm lightening them upi think this time
we'll be able to get it pretty lighti'm going to mix 2 different lightners one of them is going to be for the rootsthen i'll have another one thats just like a 10 volume cream lightener that i'm going to feather throughout the ends anytime i see some brassiness or pieces that are too dark and you have to be really careful withthis because it can chemically burn the hair if the hair doesn't have enough integrity in itso make sure you are doing strand tests throughout and you need to be workingpretty quick i'm going to be using this framesi
the decolor creamand i'm using a 20 volume on her roots actually i might even go ten no i'll do 20 20 volume on her roots because we want her to be nice and light and then i'm gonna be using a 10 volumeon her ends so when i'm mixing up these to of the exact same colorone has the developer you need to be able to mark the side if you have two different colors of bowls you can use a white bowl and a black bowlthat would be easy to know which one
is the one that will go lighterthe one that will go lighter put it in the light bowl for me since i just have this doublebowl i'm going to put a little piece of foil on the side that i'm going to be using for the twenty volume so the foil gonna remind me that thatsthe lighter side so on the right will be the lighter sideand then this will be the 10 volume on the left so somebody asked me on the framesi decolor cream.how come i only use 20 volume if i wanted 5 levels of liftwell yes, if you're wanting
five levels of lift you'll thinkoh i need 40 volume right?? the framesi hair color is actually really potent and so you don't have touse high developer and that's why it keeps the integrity of the hair a little bit nicer using it so make sure you always read the paperinsert that comes with your color because it will tell you if you need to adjust what you would normally do because on normal bleach i would put a 40 volume in for her she's like a level
she's like a level six or seven on herown so i probably wouldn't even have to do thatbut if you wanted it to go a lot faster sometimes you could do thatshe's going to be just fine with the 20 volume with her hair and that should get it really super light so we're doing the top mohawk section then two on the sides i will have two sections in the backand i'm going to start in the back and
just remember when you're using bleach on already chemically treated hair you need to be moving really quick so i'm going to move really fastand i'm going to show you a technique on how to keep the foil in really tight on the next color that i'm doingbut right now i need to move fastso i'll talk a little bit then i'll be quiet and hurry it upso i'm putting the 20 volume on her roots and these ends are already really light so it doesn't need anything else i always to another little tuck to get it nice and tight against the head and then i fold these pockets overso it should be a tight little square
i'm taking sections that are a little bit wider because i can it depends on how how thick their hair isi can see through what i'm doing and you can tell if there's anything underneath that needs to be pulled out or if it's not the right colorand all this hair back here looks pretty light so i'm not needing to do that 10 volume yetyou need to remember to check each strand as you go and she wants a little bit more blondso on this piece i'm going to take out the pieces of brown and stick
a foil in themand i'll do that every third foiland if it's all brown you can just do the 20 volume on the entire piecethis little piece is white so i'm going to leave that out so i'm only painting where i want the lightener to goif something is already light it doesn't need more bleach keep it just how it ispull it out of the foil you can still leave it in there in theroot part with it there's no reason to slap some more bleach on a piece of hair that is already the right color
and i've seen a lot of people take bleach and feather it down past this line the regrowth linei don't do that. maybe a little bit if you go too far down it will burn the hair off so you make sure that you don't go past the line of regrowth you have to make sure you go to the linedon't be afraid of touching the line because it has to not have that little you don't want a little hot ring around alright
so this one looks pretty dark i'm going to take another little bit of this dark out so this is what's going to make her lighterjust every third foil that we're doing we're taking alittle bit of the brown and making it blonde again and it doesn't have to be exactly every third foilyou can go when you feel it is a heavy brown spot you can go through and lighten that whole piece up a little bit morei go off of feeling a lot
if you are scared that you're gonnatake too much you can always count the foils now that i did this brown one over the top of the blondsthese blonds are still underneath, i don't leave them there i always go back through and pick out that piece that i already had lightened in the last colorjust to make sure that i don't have any ends or any roots that are not blond on the roots these ends are really copper colored
i'm going to take another foil and lay it downbecause we need to skip this whole section and then i'm going to take that 10 volume and very lightly there doesn't need to be very much color on your brush just dust it throughyou need to be really conservative with this because you are not wanting to soak the hair in ityou want it to lighten up just a little bit more to get rid of that stain and let it release a little bit morefold that up into the foil so the hair is safe from the 20 volume and tuck it init should be nice and tight
so i always take my foils like thisthen i fold them in an inch-and-a-half and then i stick my comb in them and that way i have a flap underneath that i can tighten up if i get a little bit loose on the foil it keeps things clean and tighti'll show you again on this one right here i have that fold in therealong the comb and then i lift up the hair stick the foil underneath it and use the point of the comb to tuck it up on the corners really tight
and then i go through with the lightner against the foilflip this up and that keeps it nice and tight and then i use that to fold it overfold it up one more time and once you've done those two folds that size then you go back underneath and tuck againthen you can use the tip of your your comb to fold those overand it's in there pretty tight. in fact i have to open the fold to pull it out when i wash her hair if you just pull that out it would actually hurtthat's how tight it is okay so this is really
dark in the ends hereso i'm going to pull out all the blond pieces then take another foil the reason why i'm using a different foil for these endsis when i go back and check them to see if the hair is holding it's integrityif it's starting to feel like it's not doing so good. i can take out just this foil and spray it with water and wash it out and wait for the ends to finish and process you need to make sure that you have
options like that when you're doingsomething like this that's so time sensitive and the hair could be really fragile try to think ahead for the things thatmight happen i finished up the back section now i'm moving on to the topi always do the top next because it's going to get to process a little bit longer than the sides and the top is a little bit more important than the sidesand i don't use that
i mean technically if i was going to go by that i would do the back very last because that's what you see the least ofin this case i want to be able to go into the backand rinse out the color on the ends if i need to i think that will be easier than having it hang in her face i did the back fist then second - top then the last things i'll do are the two sidesi'm continuing to go through with that same technique if the ends look light enough then i'm just
lightening the rootsbut most of this top section looks brassy i'm going to be a lot of the correction foils on this section so i do the 20 volume on the roots the regrowththen i grab a new foil then i hold it underneath the colored stainand really lightly just featherand you can move the foil down with you to keep the hair taut you don't want to have
a soaking amount in there, like i saidfold it up a couple times and then you can close it around your regrowthand every once and a while if i have some brown pieces i can take them out tooi'll get to those later i am leaving some of them inbecause she doesn't want to be all over blond she wants to have a tiny bit of different color in there to give it some depth all right i'm going to show you how i just barely finished all the foilsi'm going to show you how to check
and see if these ends are keeping their elasticity ok in themso obviously it's not done you can see that it's still pretty orangethis is what you're going to do you're gonna get on the end and you're gonnapull the hair and if it stretches and breaks likebubblegum then it's going to break off and you need to rinse it offit feels okay there's not a lot of stretch in it and that's an elasticity testso that's going to tell you a lot about the integrity of the hair and if it's still ok
so we're doing alright and the colorsnot all the way lifted out if her hair were to have stretchedreally really elastic like a rubber band i would have rinsed this out and started rinsing out the other ones but since it seems okay and even if itwas still dark i would be rinsing it outso it's fine so i'm going to leave it there and let it process for a few minutesi'm going to stick her under the dryer for 15 minutes and then check it again okay and so you also notice that thereis still some darkness through her endsit's okay, like i said you don't want to go through and
do every single little piece because we wanna worry more about the integrityof the hair more than if the colors gonna be theexact right color that time sometimes when you're doing color corrections and your'e going from dark to light you have to color it two or three timesin order to get the desired color and keep the hair intact so keep that in mind it's better to do itgradually than to just blow the cuticle off and fry the hair and the next time she comes and we cango through and paint a few more pieces on
for now this will be really bright and lighten it up for her so it will be good alright so we are still going to need to tone herthis is the second time that we've done from her super dark hair to the lighter so it still has a little bit of the stain in the ends but it is a little bit lighter than it was when she came in but it does need a toner you can see it's a little bit bright and brassyso we're going to do a toner. it looks like an orange tone so we will do a blue on the ends to tone
that out and i'll show you how to do that too shampoo the hair really well before you do the toner get all the lightener outmake sure you get underneath the neck really goodif there's any bleach left in the hair then it will eat away at the toner and it won't deposit into the toner so it really won't do you any good so you have to make sure you wash it really good good good good good good how many times did i say goodi mixed it with a tiny bit of the crystal clearso i did a half of an ounce
of the violet, the platinum icethe 9d in the shades eq and then probably 1/4th of an ounce of the crystal clear then probably the same equal parts of the processing solutionthen i mix it up with my finger and then i'm gonna dip her ends in at first and ring them out really good, make sure they are as rung out as you can get themand i'll start out with her ends and dip it in there she has so much color stain on herends and that's where we really want to work it out if we put in right on the roots right nowshe would end up having the roots would take faster than the endsand she might have a little
too much violet come through on the endsor on the roots so she might end up with purple roots but not really purplish just like a platinum color don't be afraid of these tonersthey really really do wonders for the hair it makes it really pretty you can already see some of the brassiness releasing out and getting toned over and i watch it and work it in with my
hands and wait for it to change this can take 1-5 minutesyou have to watch it it's a demi-permanent meaning it only deposits color so this is not lifting it will not hurt the brown in there at all it won't lift out any of the pigment the processing solutions probably like afive on the developer so it's really mildand you can see the orange colors are releasing the yellows are going out it's not as brassy
now it's starting to change on the ends and look good i can bring it up to the roots on the rest of it and just work it back down and i'm gonnamake those two sections just meet upand this is where you have to watch it good if this starts to look white then you know you need to rinse it really quickthen if it starts to even look purple then you've gone too far and you better hurry up and rinse itif by chance it does go too purple and you're worried about it
if it's not too bad you can send them home and it will fade in a few daysif it's noticeable and they feel like they have gray hair or if they are not happy you can take a little solution of 10 or 20 volume cream developer with a little bit of bleach powder mixed in itnot like you would not enough bleach to make it thick just enough to make it watery like a bleach solutionand you can pour it over
the head right here and quickly rub it in and it will release that purple tone really quick it usually takes like 10seconds and once you see it go you can hurry and rinse it outit brightens it right back up so don't be scared of using these toners they really help a tonand it give it a really creamy tone you can see right here it's starting to turn white and not looking yellow at all i'm going to rinse itthe tone of the hair is a lot better now
on the endsthen when we first pulled those foils out you can see the difference alreadyi'm going to wash it again we washed it after we took the foils out and then toned it now we're going to wash it and get that color all the way out i just realized i didn't really explain very well what the crystal clear is the crystal clear is like the color for shades eqbut without any pigment in itthe reason why i mixed it in with the toner it's like the difference between a purple crayon or a purple curtain and a shear
curtainthe purple curtain doesn't let a lot of light through and it's really dense and the shear curtain is see through and really light this is lightening it up so here's the color it's already pretty shear of a color but if you put the crystal clear in it just makes it more or less pigmented and just kinda makes it like a lighter clearer shadeso you can see through it a little bit more so it helps with toning because you're not actually trying tomake the hair look purple you're just
trying to like lay a purple see through sheet over the yellow to try to so you're using it to try to get the tone neutral again instead of yellow so that's what the crystal clear is forit dillutes the pigment in the colorso we put bleach on her ends in some places but guess whather hair is still healthy it's not falling outit's not stretchy bubble gum because we kept watching it and we made sure that it wasn't overprocessing so yeah it's never a good
thing when you're clients hair is falling out after you bleach it when you brush it we don't like that to happen and it didn't happen today and it's good now i'm going to trim her hairi'm not going to do a video on that part sorry guys it's a trim i mean i've done it on other videos i need to be quick and do her trim on her and she'll be out the door and you can see the finished product i've finished trimming her hair and i'm going through really quick
and i'm doing some flat iron curls for some texture mainly just doing it on the ends to do it really quick this is the final result really pretty blonde there is still alittle bit of a difference between the roots and the ends but it's so subtle and it melts really pretty and it looks great it's a lot better than the really dark level 3 brown that we were a couple times ago color corrections
you have to make it look goodit's not always going to be perfect because sometimes it hard to get the color stain out of the ends of the hair but this is a really good result for goingfrom a level 3 up to this high of a blondso hopefully you are happy with it yeah i'm happy with it too and i hopeyou guys like this and it was helpful and give me a thumbs up and make sureyou comment below let me know what you guys want to see next
if you have any questions about color correction
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