10 things you should know about the suit jacketthe suit jacket in detail [0:00:00] hi! i'm antonio centeno. i'm the founder ofreal men real style and a tailored suit. today, i'm going to be talking about the men's suit,the jacket in detail. in fact, i'm going to link you over to an article at a tailoredsuit in which i go into the ten different
most popular suit colors for men, details. i'm going to be talking about it here in thisquick video, but before i get started, guys, really quick, i want to let you know i'm notgoing to focus in on suit colors, jacket colors. i'm not going to talk about that in this video.in addition, i'm not going to be talking about
the full suits, so i'm not going to covertrousers. i'm not going to cover shoes. i'm not going to cover shirts. instead, i'm goingto talk about ten particular style details when it pertains to the jacket, so very detailed.let me go ahead and dive into it. point number one, when you're looking at jackets,when you're out there making a decision of what type of suit jacket you're going to gowith, you're either going to have to go with single or double-breasted suits, so that'sthe first thing. now, to be honest, most of the stores out there aren't going to havedouble-breasted jackets, but if you are in a store that has double-breasted jackets,that's a good thing. it's usually a sign of quality, a little bit more old school, probablya store like brooks brothers or something
like that, but double-breasted jackets arevery rare nowadays. you may be asking why are they out of style.really it did have to do with the trends, but it also has to do with actually the wars.i'm talking world war ii in particular, the shortage of clothing. actually, they had rationingand all of a sudden, double-breasted jackets, which used more fabric, basically were madeless. also, when the vets were coming back, most of them in military uniforms had beensingle-breasted. they got used to it. all of a sudden, we saw the double-breasted jacketjust fall out of favor. now, point number two and what we're goingto talk about, single-breasted jackets. you're going to see two and three-button jacketsare going to be the most common. now, right
here i'm wearing a three-button jacket. ihave a lot of jackets especially sports jackets, which are two-button jackets. you will occasionallysee one button jackets, those that are going to be in formal wear mostly. you will alsosee four-button, five-button, and in some cases, no-button jackets. those last ones, don’t wear them. they'rea real abomination. don’t have them custom-made either. now, some basketball players willsay -- i understand if you're seven feet tall. maybe then consider a four-button jacket.it'll look a little bit more proportion, but if you're not beyond probably 6'6", let'snot even go there. so what's going to be the decision then? mostlybetween two and three-button jackets. i'm
going to recommend for most men to start witha two-button. the second jacket, sure, a three-button. now, understand there is a little bit of playbetween the two. there's also a two-and-a-half and this is where actually it's designed notto button that top button. now, the rules are the center button on athree-button is always; the top button on a three-button, sometimes; and the bottombutton never on both jackets, while the top button on the two-button is always. but asyou can see right here, i've got two buttons buttoned. this is going to be a little bitmore formal-looking, and that's where the three-button shines. it's a little bit moreformal, a little bit more covered up of a look.
there have actually been scientific studiesthat have shown the more of our body that we cover, actually the more formal and moreintelligent we look. so if you're giving a lot of presentations, maybe a three-buttonis the way you would want to go. it's a little bit more old school and sometimes it fallsin and out of favor. i like two buttons though for most of my jackets and the reason beingthey're a little bit more casual and i mostly wear sports jackets, but for suit jackets,a two-button is perfectly fine especially if it's going with a suit that is solid darkin color, but if you're going to start bringing in pinstripes, other types of patterns, thenyou may want to also consider a three. so we've talked about single versus double,three versus two. let's talk about the lapels
now, so this is point number three. notchlapels are going to be by far the most common. if you want to change it up a bit, make thejacket a little bit more formal, then you can go with peak lapels. peak lapels are alwaysgoing to be on a double-breasted jacket, so if you've ever seen a double-breasted jacketwith notch lapels, then run. that is not a good look. now, there is a third type of lapel that wecan talk about and that's going to be the shawl lapel. the shawl lapel is mostly goingto be in black tie. occasionally, you will see it also on a double-breasted jacket, butthat's one of the more formal and i would say it's pretty rare, so if you're lookingat shawl lapels, you're probably already more
advanced than what this video is going tocover. point number four to look at in a suit jacketis going to be the shoulder style. what do i mean by that? well, we're going to havevery soft shoulders and the soft shoulders are going to be more of the italian look,and that's considered also a little bit less formal versus more structured shoulders, whichare going to be more of the english look and they're going to be built up a bit more. [0:05:03] you will also see some italian structuredshoulders and they're going to have a little bit of roping on that, a little bit of a bumphere on the end, and those are going to be
considered more formal. now, i rarely ever see -- if you get all theother details, just make sure that whenever you buy a suit, it actually fits you in theshoulders. it if looks a little bit too structured, then possibly ask the salesman for a lessstructured, softer shoulder and he'll probably be impressed. okay, so point number five, let's talk aboutthe silhouette of the suit. we're either going to have the sack, we're going to have thefitted or the italian as some people call it, and we're going to have the structured,which is going to be more of the english look. with the sack, that's where it hangs down.it's not going to be very tight around the
midsection, known also as the american brooksbrothers style. this has been around for about a hundred years, very classic, but in my opinion,not always going to be well suited to a man who takes care of his body. now, the fitted is going to be more of a europeanlook. it's going to fit the body exactly like it just says. however, it does need to betailored and adjusted. we're going to see this in a lot of designer suits, but if youcarry a bit of weight around the midsection, you don’t necessarily want to go with afitted suit, although you can go with something that maybe is a little bit more adjusted.i've seen some guys pull it off, but they don’t have too big of a midsection.
now, the structured jacket, the english one,this is where we're going to see the actual chest and the shoulders built up. you're goingto have more of a silhouette. you will have some waist suppression, but this is goingto be something that has a very -- it's going to be the most formal of all of the lookswe just talked about. point number six, let's talk about pockets.you're going to see different types of pockets out there. the most common you will have issingle-breast pocket on the left-hand side. in some of my videos, you may see i have abreast pocket on the right hand side and you can leave a comment down below of why youthink i do that. well, i'll just tell you guys.
basically, it is because i enjoy doing thingsand challenging the status quo and having fun with some of my clothing, but you willalso see pockets down here on the hip area of the jacket. these pockets mostly will bestraight across. you will occasionally see slanted or what's known as hacking pockets.those are more sport. the english are a big fan of them. another thing you'll see outthere are patch pockets. patch pockets are very informal and are going to be more reservedfor sports jackets and sometimes a blazer. let's talk now about sleeve buttons. mostjackets are going to have about four, some will have three, some will have five, andsome will have other variations, but the number is -- i would say four is going to be standardon a suit. three is perfectly fine on a suit.
below three, all of a sudden, we start gettinginto custom sports jackets and things i see there. five has become a little bit more fashionable,and some people talk about the buttons actually kissing where there's a bit of overlap. when it comes down to it, this is a very smalldetail. just make sure that you've got about four buttons. if you start to see weird buttoncontrasting or just a strange overlap or some contrast stitching, then you may want to question,"is this more of a designer suit?" now, let's talk about the inside lining, sothis is point number eight. most jackets on the inside lining, they're going to go witha very simple inside lining that actually somewhat matches the outer exterior. it doesn’treally get out there. custom jackets, a lot
of times you'll see someone go with somethingthat's a bit more loud, something that's a bit more unique. most of the time, they'regoing to be made from bemberg. if you see that the inside of the jacket ismade from an unnatural material, and i'm talking something like rayon or something that doesn’tbreathe as well, be very careful. that can affect the breathability. bemberg is actuallymade from wood pulp and is very breathable. you'll also see some silk out there. silki like to stay away from because it's more expensive and if it tears, very, very difficultto fix. now, let's talk about point number nine, whichare jacket vents. this goes back to when we're talking about the various silhouettes -- sack,fitted, versus structured. usually on vents,
if you have no vents, that's going to be moreof the italian look. it allows for a more fitted look. single vents in the back, theseare often accompanied with most mass-manufactured jackets because they're the least expensiveto build. i'm not a fan of them because if you put your hands in your pocket, basicallythe back opens up and it exposes your backside. my favorite is the double vent or the two-sidedvent, and the reason being, you can put your hand in your pocket whenever you walk. i thinkit creates the nicest look. it is the best of both worlds. it's also the most expensiveto manufacture, which is why we rarely see it in off-the-rack clothing. finally, let's talk about the lapel button.if you look on a jacket, there should be a
little buttonhole right in here and that'sbecause these jackets were originally designed to be able to close up and button. [0:09:59] nowadays, this is used to put in a boutonniereand there should be a small little latch right
behind it to hold a flower. all right, guys, let me know what you think.that is the men's suit, the jacket in detail. hopefully, you learned something in the video.see you in the next one. bye-bye. [0:10:24] end of audio
